After my photo shoot at the Ace, I took to the city by foot and headed towards Pioneer Courthouse Square. I couldn’t have asked for better November weather in a city that averages sun only 1 day a week from October to March. Eeesh. I reckon Portlanders just appreciate the sun that much more.
Right, so a beautiful day. As soon as I saw and smelled these little buggies in a parking lot, I knew I had to grab lunch. Portland is known for its food carts – mostly independent mobile food sellers. Here there were 20-30 of them set up. The vermicelli from Pho Sam was terrific.
Portland has a proliferation of Food Carts and they seem to be growing in numbers and locations. Some might call them lunch wagons, taco trucks or even snack shacks, but whatever you call them, they are truly a phenomenon in Portland. Set up in parking lots, sidewalks, and even parks (sometimes in large groups and sometimes solo), one might nosh on a fresh tortilla Baja fish taco one day, a rib-sticking bowl of traditional goulash the next, have a coffee and pastry for an afternoon snack, and then take home a giant Indian combo box for dinner.
This fun directional sign at the Square, or the city’s “living room” gave mileage to the Zoo, Times Square, Mt. Hood, etc. And these little bronze guys welcomed passerby’s and watched as a giant evergreen was being prepped for a tree-lighting ceremony.
I continued southwest to recently completed Director Park, a new paved plaza over underground parking. Then further to the very pretty Multnomah County Central Library.While not quite the Seattle Public Library, this 1913 restored gem features 17 miles of linear bookshelf space.
Next, I hit up a few design shops. Canoe is a warm showroom of modern, designer home and office accessories. It’s a great place for gifts and they even carry Monocle magazine!
I especially liked these wool felt coasters by Parkhaus.
Just around the corner is Alder & Co., another design shop with women’s clothing.
North of here is the new Indigo commercial/residential high-rise. At the base is Cacao. I tried a simple cup of drinking chocolate. And it was heavenly. As you can see below, I unflatteringly spilled it all over the table. Tasty nonetheless.
The city is really something special. It has the street-level density of a New York, but without the height. You can see people everywhere: walking, talking, dining, shopping. It’s a vibrant and successful case for the American city. And it’s on the up.
I didn’t wait in line (which was at least three times as what is pictured above) for Voodoo Doughnut this time, but this place is a Portland legend. I saw one happy customer walk away with a FruitLoop topped donut for starters.
Portland is also huge on supporting local, independent businesses. Everyday Music featured a very large collection of CDs and vinyl records while Powell’s City of Books covers an entire city block, and then some. It’s a tourist destination and very comprehensive. The rooms are color coordinated, and by the sign below, you can infer that there are lots of rooms full of books. Twists and turns, stairwells and tunnels – this is truly a unique experience. And it seems to be working. The downtown Border’s is going out of business.
On the third floor was a pop-up graphic prints show. I wanted to buy one but the Christmas rush was on and the line was quite long.
Tree-lined streets, food vendor, bicycles, street performers…
I headed east towards the river to scout out the UO campus. It’s on Couch St. Though I was informed by locals that it is not pronounced like the potato…
One of two park corridors through the city, this one between the Pearl and Chinatown/Old Town districts featured a giant elephant statue.
In October 2002, a 12-foot bronze sculpture was installed between Burnside and Couch streets. A replica of a wine pitcher from the late Shang Dynasty (circa 1200-1100 BC), this sculpture is about sixteen times larger than the original. The young elephant standing peacefully on his father’s back symbolizes safe and prosperous offspring. The elaborate surface decoration features cloud-shaped curves and birds and animals from ancient Chinese mythology. The piece is titled Da Tung & Xi’an Bao Bao. Da Tung may be translated as “universal peace” or “large bronze.” Xi’an Bao Bao means “baby elephant.”
The sculpture was a gift to the city from Chinese businessman Huo Baozhu, whose foundry in Xi’an, China, is licensed by the national government to reproduce Chinese antiquities. Huo, who visited Portland a number of times, said he was motivated by a love of Chinese history and admiration for Portland.
The historic Union Station tower can been seen on Broadway.
The White Stag Block houses the University of Oregon, Portland campus. It has been recently renovated and houses several satellite departments including Journalism, Law, and the Architecture & Allied Arts.
My last stop for the evening with the Portland Saturday Market, just southeast of the UO campus on the Willamette River. A great pavilion protects the oldest vendors in this weekend sellers market. Everything from toys, honey and jewelry can be found here between the months of March and December.
Stay tuned for part 3!
